Tried & tasted: Brasserie Chavot

Brasserie Chavot exudes an air of Gallic sophistication from the get-go, writes Colette Doyle. The dark wooden panelling, subdued lighting supplied by an array of crystal chandeliers and the rich, red glow of the leather upholstered seating are all perfectly in keeping with its swanky Mayfair location as part of The Westbury hotel.

My dining companion and I start off with a dish of smoked eel with bacon and quail eggs that comes unbidden from the kitchen for us to try as it’s the special of the day. I savour the bacon’s crispy deliciousness and my adventurous guest pronounces the substantial-looking eel quite chewy, but with a more pleasant taste than expected, thanks in part to the creamy horseradish sauce.

As a starter I opt for that French classic of chicken liver parfait, presented with a continental flourish on a wooden board alongside prune and fig chutney, while my plus-one for the evening chooses a citrus-flavoured ceviche of scallops. Mains are sea bass served with a visually appealing mound of ratatouille niçoise and succulent tiger prawns that come with the addition of a velvety harissa dressing that packs just the right amount of heat.

When it comes to side dishes we ditch the carbs and order some virtuous-sounding vegetables: a portion of green beans and one of chickpeas. Liberally doused in garlic, who knew the humble green bean could taste this good? The chickpeas, meanwhile, come with slivers of smoky chorizo and make for an excellent accompaniment without the heaviness you often get after eating potatoes or rice.

We toast eponymous chef Eric’s gastronomic prowess with a delightful Château La Coste Bellugue, a Provence rose which, so the sommelier tells us, is redolent with hints of grapefruit, peach and pear.

On the dessert menu I spy a long-time favourite of mine, Rum Baba, which is moist and moreish, accompanied by light-as-air whipped Chantilly cream; a Monbazillac dessert wine makes for a fantastic pairing. My escort opts for a luscious chocolate pot that is accompanied by a glass of Maury, one of those rare wines that goes well with chocolate and which tastes a little like port.

Next time you feel like indulging in a truly authentic meal à la française, save yourself the fare on Eurostar and head on down to this stylish Mayfair outpost instead.

41 Conduit Street, London W1S 2YF; 020 7183 6425; brasseriechavot.com