A design-led hotel nestled in the charming French countryside could make the ideal location for that off-site team-building event or management get-together, as Colette Doyle discovers
As soon as you set eyes on hotel Le Saint-James, set in the renowned culinary centre of Bouliac near Bordeaux, you can tell this is no corporate cookie cutter property. Architect Jean Nouvel transformed the siteโs existing farmhouse back in 1989 and the result was a property that is now listed by Franceโs Ministry of Culture as part of the countryโs 20th-century architectural heritage.
Each of the 18 rooms and suites has its own individual dรฉcor (one even has a Harley Davidson as part of the fixtures and fittings). Ours is stark yet stunning; laid out like a New York loft, with a futon-style bed and a minimalist feel. The floor-to-ceiling windows run the full length of the wall and have a commanding view of the rolling green countryside, all the way down to the Garonne river and the city of Bordeaux beyond. Outside, the huge wooden-decked terrace is home to a generous-sized hot tub, perfect for lounging in with a glass of the local fizz.
While the surroundings are impressive, itโs the Michelin-starred restaurant at the hotel that will really wow guests. This is a gastronomic experience par excellence, thanks to the expertise of Basque chef Nicolas Magie. Our tasting menu begins with a tempting array of amuse-bouches, including foie gras, goatโs cheese, bayonne ham and smoked salmon, beautifully presented in a box with foliage displayed inside. Next up is a dish of langoustines that comes with an intriguing piรฑa colada mousse. Then thereโs asparagus with morels and poached egg. Turbot with cauliflower mash is sublime; the lamb is slightly overdone for my liking, so the helpful waitress quickly arranges for a new portion. The toffee dessert is based on Carambar sticks, a childrenโs sweet long popular in France. The popping candy effect is great fun and the caramel topping sits on a crunchy biscuit alongside a blood orange sorbet.
This Relais & Chateaux property is home to several distinctive works of modern art, including Louise Crusoรฉโs Wingback Chair, (which I just had to snap a picture of myself posing in) and there are various eye-catching sculptures dotted round the hotel, as well as several abstract paintings. Those with a love of the epicurean arts will be delighted to hear that the hotel is also home to a cookery school where groups can learn the secrets of French cuisine straight from the experts.
Under the watchful eye of the kindly and ever-patient chef Cรฉlia, we are taught how to prepare a starter of poached langoustines with fish quenelles (a traditional garnish that originates from Lyon) and sea bass with a Parmesan crust, artichokes and ham jus. This is all a little too advanced for me, to be honest, but I do pick up some great Masterchef-type tips, as Cรฉlia shows me the best way to remove the skin of a tomato (plunge it first into boiling, then freezing, water) and how to stop artichokes from going brown (immerse them in lemon-flavoured water).
More to my taste, quite literally, is the wine-tasting session on offer with the incredibly knowledgeable and genial sommelier Richard Bernard. In just over an hour he provides us with a potted history of French wines and elaborates on the difference between such technicalities as first and second pressings in an entertaining and accessible fashion.
If you were to need further proof that this delightful Gallic hideaway really does have it all, the hotelโs portfolio includes the charming and rustic Cafรฉ de LโEspรฉrance, just a few minutesโ walk away from the hotel in the village of Bouliac. We sat in the cosy winter garden and tucked in to the serve-yourself starter buffet, before feasting on duck and beef tartare.
Hotel Le Saint-James is a gem that will enthral bon vivants who are looking to recharge their batteries in a setting designed to appeal to all the senses.
Hotel Le Saint-James, 3 Place Camille Hostein, 33270 Bouliac, France (+ 33 5 57 97 06 00; saintjames-bouliac.com/en/homeluxury-hotel-bordeaux). Rates are from โฌ195 per room per night
Colette Doyle travelled to Bordeaux with Easyjet. The airline flies there from Belfast, Bristol, Liverpool, Gatwick and Luton, with prices starting from ยฃ23.74 per person (one-way, including taxes, based on two people on the same booking). All flights can be booked at easyjet.com
