PA life
Roccabella

Tried & tasted

London restaurants are going up in the world โ€“ quite literally, writes Colette Doyle. Long-time stalwarts such as the Paramount at Centre Point have been joined by newcomers including Sushisamba at Heron Tower and Aqua at the Shard. And now thereโ€™s City Social, (pictured) located on the 24th floor of Tower 42, close to the Cityโ€™s Liverpool Street.

The latest venture of Michelin-starred chef Jason Atherton, who was the first Brit to complete an internship at Spainโ€™s legendary El Bulli restaurant, is buzzing when I arrive; even though itโ€™s still early and mid-week, thereโ€™s already a lively feel to the place and an upbeat jazz soundtrack adds to the atmosphere.

Service is sleek from the outset and I like the way the dessert menu is made available upfront, perfect for those who, like me, have a sweet tooth and want to know how much room to leave for pudding. Our server brings a choice of white baguette or sourdough brown bread accompanied by whipped, unsalted butter that tastes incredibly creamy and nothing like your average supermarket spread.

My companion and I both opt for seafood starters โ€“ he goes for beetroot-cured Cornish mackerel, which turns the fish a fetching shade of pink and is served with roasted pine nuts and goatโ€™s cheese sorbet, and I order tuna tataki with avocado, which comes with a ponzu dressing whose piquancy perfectly complements the other ingredients.

The wine list features some fancy bottles if youโ€™re here to splash the cash; I spot a Riesling from Alsace for ยฃ410. The sommelier recommends a more reasonably priced Chablis that is both refreshing and beautifully balanced.

For the main course, I continue with the pescetarian theme and select Dover sole with a citrus sabayon (a light foamy mousse) that is enhanced by the addition of caper gnocchi on the side. My escortโ€™s lamb dish, meanwhile, comes complete with a dinky mini-Shepherdโ€™s Pie.

After dessert (a selection of cheeses for him and a luscious white peach parfait with basil for me), weโ€™re presented with salted chocolate caramels in a gorgeous wooden box to enjoy with coffee while we admire the stunning views, which get even better after dark.

There are smart private rooms for hire here too โ€“ one is a chefโ€™s table, the other seats 24 (pictured above) and thereโ€™s an incentive scheme whereby PAs get points for booking. Just one more reason that this classy operation looks set to be a soaring success.

City Social, 24th Floor, 25 Old Broad St, London EC2N 1HQ; 020 7877 7703; citysociallondon.com

Silk & Grain
In the modern age of creative cocktails and innovative food, a restaurant offering delicious dishes and drinks that rival the fanciest bars is a rare find, writes Molly Dyson. Silk & Grain is one such place, while also providing a stylish, relaxed environment.

The atmosphere here is ideal for both lunch meetings and post-work drinks. On the ground floor youโ€™ve got a hip bar with speakers playing the latest music. As my partner and I are escorted upstairs to the dining room, Iโ€™m pleased to find that the noise doesnโ€™t permeate โ€“ manager James tells us he specifically asked for the speakers to be pointed downward when the place was being decorated for this very reason.

Itโ€™s a few minutes before we even look at the menu because weโ€™re too busy taking pictures of the stag statue thatโ€™s covered in pennies and the bullโ€™s head fountain plastered with paper currency from around the world.

The main attraction is the selection of aged cocktails, an idea James came up with in his past life as a bartender. My favourite is called leather and spice, a concoction of scotch with leather infusion, mango, passion fruit syrup and cardamom bitters. Itโ€™s just sweet enough to mask the taste of alcohol, but not as sugary as some of the drinks youโ€™ll find at trendy nightclubs.

When it comes to food, the chef has everything well under control. The menu is small, but it offers something for everyone. I start with a tasty chilled lobster salad with sweetcorn, tomatoes and tarragon mayonnaise before moving on to a rump steak with bรฉarnaise sauce and creamy mashed potatoes.

My partner wolfs down his smoked mackerel and horseradish pรขtรฉ and the flavour of his honey-glazed rack of lamb makes up for the meat being a bit undercooked for his taste.

Dessert for me is a gooey homemade brownie with pistachio ice cream and a peach and almond tart for him, both of which leave us ready to slip into a satisfied food coma. If youโ€™re looking for an unusual drinks list without the commotion of a cocktail bar, this restaurant is certainly worth a try.

Silk & Grain, 33 Cornhill, London EC3V 3ND; 020 7929 1378; silkandgrain.co.uk