Tried & tasted: Avenue

Think of American food and what usually comes to mind is hot dogs, pancakes, ribs, burgers and anything groaning under the weight of its own carb-laden content, writes Colette Doyle. Avenue, however, is a modern American restaurant that claims to “capture the buzz of the New York dining scene” and has about as much in a common with a golden arches-style fast food eatery as Prada does with Primark.

Avenue’s swanky interior is in keeping with its salubrious location on upscale St James’s Street. Its sleek lines see the dark wooden flooring contrast beautifully with the backlit glass-filled cabinets perched above the Long Bar. What appears to be a chandelier turns out to be a display of glasses turned upside down, blending in perfectly with the modern art that adorns the walls.

The private dining room can seat up to 20 guests and features a stunning light installation alongside a full-length plaster cast of a bookcase and an antique wooden dining table – ideal for those looking for privacy in stylish surroundings.

My companion and I both go for the crustacean option to start: softshell crab for him and shrimp cocktail for me. The crab is the right side of spicy thanks to the addition of chipotle sauce, while my prawn cocktail comes with the dressing on the side for ladies who watch their weight, but is so moreish I end up ordering extra.

For mains, we continue with the seafood theme: my date plumps for roasted turbot, bok choy and asparagus in a cardamom and vanilla dressing and I order lobster risotto. The rice is perfectly cooked al dente and the fennel adds a delectable flavour to the bisque, enhanced by the creamy taste of Parmesan. The only thing I don’t like about lobster is how messy it can be, but this is cut into dainty little pieces, so there’s absolutely no muss or fuss.

Dessert is a clever take on those classic American favourites: doughnuts and cheesecake. These mini versions (donut holes) come with cream, jam and chocolate pots, while the caramel cheesecake features butter popcorn on top and can only be described as a-ma-zing.

If you’re after brasserie-style dining with a US flavour, then this classy joint could be right up your street.

Avenue, 7-9 St Jame’s St, London SW1A 1EE; 020 7321 2111; avenue-restaurant.co.uk/