Tried & tasted: Inn the Park

My previous visits to Inn the Park have all been to grab a bottle of water or a quick bite to eat at its self-service café during walks through St James’s Park, writes Molly Dyson. Having sat down for brunch recently, I’m now glad I’ve had a chance to experience a proper meal at this Peyton and Byrne-run restaurant.

It’s an unassuming place at first glance. Built on the edge of a pond, the venue features a wooden façade and floor-to-ceiling windows that offer unhindered views of the park’s beautiful scenery. The décor inside is minimalist, probably because the setting is more than pleasing for the eyes. My companion and I are lucky enough to visit on one of those rare, clear winter days, though a warming cup of coffee is needed to chase away the grip of the frigid temperature.

Our menu is a filling brunch designed to prepare us for a full day of perusing the sales. I start with a pancake served with crispy bacon and sweet maple syrup. The thick pastry that arrives isn’t what I would call a traditional pancake, but its fluffy texture is satisfying nonetheless. Meanwhile, my partner chooses potted shrimps with sourdough toast.

We’re both relieved to receive small portions for the main course, as the starters were quite filling on their own. My smoked haddock kedgeree is seasoned to perfection and has just enough fish to add flavour without making it too heavy. The mushroom Wellington my plus-one decides on looks deliciously flaky and she says she can’t find any fault with it. With no room left for dessert, we instead sit back to watch the world while we finish one more hot drink to warm us up before we face the cold weather again.

The restaurant is now open for breakfast, lunch and afternoon tea, making it the ideal place for a meal between meetings taking place in and around Westminster.

St James’s Park, London SW1A 2BJ; 020 7451 9999; peytonandbyrne.co.uk/inn-the-park/index.html