Tried & tasted: Le Coq

Some people are daunted by the thought of a large menu, but not me – I’m more likely to feel cheated at the thought of a meagre selection, so it’s with some trepidation that I go to visit Le Coq, writes Colette Doyle. This Islington restaurant serves up just one principal dish and the clue is in the name: chicken.

7pm is relatively early doors for a dinner reservation, yet when I turn up I find the place is already heaving, testimony to its popularity after having been open for just a year.

With such a short menu there’s barely any need for a printed version, so it’s displayed on a couple of electronic billboards on the brick wall, although the solicitous server brings me a copy when I confide in her that I’ve forgotten my glasses.

The three starters tonight are Basil Gnudi, Prosciutto & Tomato on Toast and Harissa Stuffed Mussels. We opt for the first two; with such little choice the dishes need to be good – luckily they are. The gnudi are tasty little morsels and the San Daniele ham is divine. For the main course there’s no contest, so they bring out a succulent rotisserie, free-range chicken reared in Sutton Hoo in rural Suffolk.

Side dishes change weekly and tonight it’s roasted spiced cauliflower with almonds, plus there are staples accompaniments such as more-ish roast potatoes, a crisp green salad and a harissa yogurt sauce that packs quite a punch and makes a great dip. For dessert, we share the peanut butter ice cream and the pumpkin and amaretti tart, which manages to be deliciously sweet without being sickly.

There’s a decent little wine list too, with half a dozen reds and whites, a rosé, two types of fizz and a Swiss beer on tap. The helpful Italian waiting staff advise me to try a Passerina variety from Abruzzo, which is billed as “Like Sauvignon? Then you’ll love this!”

The cosy atmosphere is conducive to a relaxing time and there is also a dinky private dining room for groups of up to 14 who want to cocoon themselves away from the buzz of the main restaurant. This place may have a small menu, but it’s big on quality, ambience and style.

Le Coq, 292-294 Saint Paul’s Road, London N1 2LH; 020 7359 5055; le-coq.co.uk/