Tried & tasted: Morblas, Hilton Glasgow City Centre

After the outcome of the recent referendum on independence, Scotland remains part of the UK but is still different in many ways – the country has its own parliament, laws, education system and language. At the Hilton Glasgow City Centre the Morblas restaurant takes its name from the indigenous Gaelic and translates as “great taste”, writes Colette Doyle.

The hotel recently underwent a multi-million pound refurbishment that culminated in the introduction in summer 2012 of three brand new F&B outlets, with the stylish Connich Bar and the fashionable Ti Tea Lounge joining Morblas. It’s money well spent, as the pleasingly subtle décor of the dining room is easy on the eye, clearly designed to soothe the sensibilities of the weary business traveller.

We kick off with a tempting trio of different flavoured butters along with some fresh bread, brought to our table by the affable Richard – the one with sea salt is simple yet delicious. As a starter I plump for the juicy scallops, served with baked artichoke, gem lettuce and hazelnuts – an unusual combination, but it works. My companion chooses the soup of the day, which is warming lentil and root veg; as I sneak a spoonful, it reveals itself as having a bit of a spicy kick.

When it comes to the mains, there is little discussion to be had; despite an extensive menu that takes in a whole host of dishes from the grill, including home-grown fillet and Châteaubriand, plus main courses that range from lamb shoulder to wild mushroom and truffle tagliatelle, our eyes immediately alight on the lemon sole. We order sides of creamy mash and spinach and find that the fish also comes accompanied by three tasty sauces: alioli, herb butter and béarnaise, as well as proper chip shop-style fries.

Though not served off the bone for some reason, which makes cutting it up quite fiddly, the sole melts in the mouth and the sweetness of the meaty flesh is well balanced against the saltiness of the capers in the dish.

The place is fairly buzzing meaning that service is leisurely, which will suit those who, like me, prefer to leave a decent interval between courses. When we do move on to dessert we choose the salted caramel tart – as delicious as it sounds – and a selection of cheeses at a reasonable £3 per piece that includes Scottish, English and French varieties. The after-dinner espresso comes with a mini coconut scone, a nice finishing touch.

All in all, Morblas is a worthy addition to the Hilton portfolio of dining outlets and should prove to be to most people’s taste.

Hilton Glasgow City Centre, 1 William Street, Glasgow G3 8HT; 0141 204 5506; hiltonglasgow.co.uk/restaurant-and-bar/morblas-seafood-and-grill.html