Tried & Tasted: Nipa Thai

Since restaurant reviewers are supposed to attempt at least some sign of professional impartiality, allow me to make a disclosure up front: I absolutely love Thai food, writes Colette Doyle. From Tom Kha soup and fish cakes to red curry with pork and Weeping Tiger (beef in a spicy marinade), there are very few Thai dishes I don’t like.

You will understand where I’m coming from, therefore, if I wax lyrical about the lovely establishment that is Nipa Thai. The evening starts with a warm welcome from the beautifully attired waitresses wearing traditional dress. The refined atmosphere is complemented by the attractive décor, featuring lots of little lanterns and wooden carvings.

My guest and I kick off with a cocktail – that all-time classic (or naff throwback to the Costa del Sol circa 1973, depending on your take on it) Piña Colada. We sip the delightfully creamy concoction as we munch on prawn crackers with a sweet chilli dip that packs quite a punch.

The khantok menu that I’m here to try is a clever idea: it’s a pre-theatre meal given a Thai makeover; the khantok is a tray with separate compartments for dishes, something along the lines of the Japanese bento box. There’s a veggie option and two meat-eater choices, so my companion and I go for one of each – mine comes with a starter of prawn dumplings and two mains: chicken and aubergine green curry, plus beef in oyster sauce, served with Jasmine rice.

My only caveat is that if you’re a slow eater like me, then your dinner date will have polished off the whole thing before you get to try any of their selection – such a shame, as his spring rolls followed by chicken red curry and stir-fried pork with coriander and garlic looked very tasty indeed.

We cheat when it comes to dessert; although the hand-carved exotic fruit that comes with the khantok is beautifully presented – the pineapple in particular is bursting with flavour – we decide to order the fried banana and coconut ice cream as a more substantial ending to the meal.

Afterwards, hot towels are provided by our solicitous hosts and we bid them “Sawasdee Ka”. This multi-purpose greeting can be used for both hello and goodbye; there is a way to say farewell in Thai, but it’s not appropriate in this instance because I’m certain I’ll be paying another visit here in the very near future.

The khantoks are priced at £19.50 per person, including a glass of wine, beer, or soft drink, and are available from 5pm to 7pm. For reservations call 020 7551 6000, or visit niparestaurant.co.uk