The Ritz (pictured) is a byword for opulence and dining here is something to which all bon viveurs aspire, writes Colette Doyle. Luxury comes as standard, as frock-coated waiters cater to your every whim and each patron, whether they have a title or not, is made to feel special. If you like understated minimalism you may have to book elsewhere: gold statues of Neptune and Venus take centre stage amid the floor-to-ceiling windows, dazzling chandeliers, plush red carpets and multi-panelled mirrors.
My guest and I try the menu surprise, a six-course tasting menu created by Chef John Williams MBE and start off with an astonishing array of amuse-bouches. Next up, a glass of pinot blanc accompanies heirloom tomato salad with lobster and tomato consommé and delicate basil mousse.
The tasting menu expertly matches each course with a vintage libation, so a Cloudy Bay sauvignon blanc is paired with salmon in a creamy hollandaise sauce and a Stag’s Leap sauvignon from the Napa Valley accompanies delicate langoustines with pumpkin purée, carrot, courgette and lobster sauce. Whispering Angel is the delightful sounding name of the next wine up, a Côtes de Provence rosé that we opt for instead of red, which goes perfectly with the filet of beef served alongside sautéed foie gras, truffles and mushrooms. For dessert, the Château Beaulon Pineau des Charentes is delightful when sipped with a concoction of strawberry sorbet and vanilla parfait.
For a special occasion, whether that’s a business lunch to impress overseas or VIP contacts, a dinner to thank existing clients, or a treat for a loved one, The Ritz remains London’s quintessential dining experience.
The Ritz; 150 Piccadilly, London W1J 9BR; 020 7493 8181; theritzlondon.com
HIX
This year marks the 175th anniversary of Brown’s Hotel, making it something of a Mayfair institution, writes Colette Doyle. This Rocco Forte-run property has seen many a famous face cross its doors over the decades, including Queen Victoria. Nowadays, it welcomes the likes of Tracey Emin, Paul Smith and Stella McCartney and is synonymous with being a haunt of the movers and shakers from the worlds of art and fashion.
Hix, the in-house restaurant overseen by eponymous chef Mark, a veteran of the London food scene, carries on this fine tradition and displays a range of artworks by British artists. In fact, a Tracey Emin work entitled “I Loved You More Than I Can Love” catches my eye as soon as I enter, but to paraphrase a famous beer campaign from the 1970s “I’m only here for the food”, so I prise my eyes away and peruse the menu instead.
The prawn cocktail starter could be a naff throwback to the decade that taste forgot, but in the capable hands of Executive Chef Lee Streeton it becomes a more sophisticated dish entirely. My companion plumps for salmon smoked using a proprietary “Hix cure” method, served with moreish soda bread from a recipe by Michelin-starred Irish chef Richard Corrigan. For the main course I go for a lighter option (a prudent move that means I can save room for dessert) and choose the Swainson House Farm chicken with a poached Burford Brown egg – clearly, provenance of food is of supreme importance here. My guest opts for Torbay Dover sole, which is pronounced sublime. Bakewell pudding with clotted cream rounds off the stylish meal on a high note. Urbane, classy and tasteful, this Mayfair venue may be steeped in history, but its future is certainly assured.
Hix; Brown’s Hotel, Albermarle Street/ Dover Street, London W1S 4BP; 020 7518 4004; hixmayfair.co.uk
