Tried & tasted: The Sign of the Don

Think of sherry and a fusty, overly sweet beverage beloved by maiden aunts everywhere probably springs to mind, writes Colette Doyle. The Sign of the Don urges you to think again, located as it is on the site of the original Sandeman port and sherry cellar. Upstairs, the bar has a buzzy vibe and downstairs the bistro (an offshoot of the original Don restaurant next door) is an intimate affair with its dark panelling and starched white tablecloths.

The wine list is comprehensive and offers an excellent range of red, white and rosé vintages by the glass, plus, of course, the star of the show: a selection of sherries and ports that encompasses the dry and light manzanilla, as well as the rich amontillado.

The menu serves up classic bistro fare that is given a Spanish twist. My request to have a half portion of king prawns as a starter is happily relayed to the kitchen by the helpful waiting staff and the succulent crustaceans come served with just the right amount of garlic and chilli.

For the mains, my companion opts for Mrs Wilson’s Suffolk Blackface lamb burger, named after the owner who, as it turns out, is actually dining here on the same evening, something that surely bodes well for the quality of the food. Meanwhile, I opt for the veal, which is grilled to perfection and comes with a gorgeously gooey egg and a fresh tomato salsa.

From the tempting desserts list we choose rum baba and a dark chocolate pot with salted caramel; the former comes with extra rum on the side and the latter is simply the most divine pairing imaginable.

If you want to come here en masse, there are private spaces in the labyrinth-like vaults that can accommodate groups in a unique setting. The Sign of the Don gives every indication of being a seriously classy operation.

The Sign of the Don; 21 St Swithins Lane, London EC4N 8AD; 020 7626 2606; thesignofthedon.com