Tried & tasted: Uni

Sushi restaurants should no longer be perceived as in-and-out affairs where the dishes float past you on a constantly moving conveyor belt, writes Molly Dyson. Since the cuisine has become such a popular choice for the UK’s up-and-coming generation of creative business people, these establishments have turned into swanky modern venues. Uni is no exception, with its recessed lighting and dark hardwood floors. Backlit shelves line the walls, containing an eclectic mix of antiques, from books to knickknacks and Japanese prints.

Uni’s menu is a bit different from your average sushi place because it celebrates Nikkei cuisine, which is the marriage of Peruvian and Japanese cooking. Those looking for spicier options might find the selection of ceviche and tiradito (South American versions of sushi) appealing. My partner and I aren’t feeling up for it, so we both go for the set menu. Our miso soup is so good we finish it in a few eager spoonfuls and after, the kaiso seaweed salad puts us in the mood for something more substantial.

I’m a fan of simple food, so I choose nigiri sushi (a piece of fish on a bed of rice) as my main dish. My eyes are obviously bigger than my stomach, as 10 massive pieces including tuna, yellowtail, tiger prawn, butterfish and salmon are put in front of me, complete with a side of ginger to cleanse the pallet and wasabi to spice things up. My partner’s selection is much the same but in the form of maki (fish and rice rolled in seaweed).

For dessert, our waiter suggests the mochi, a Japanese confection made from pounded sticky rice with an ice cream filling. Neither of us have had it before but we’re amazed at how delicious the chocolate, cheesecake and fruit-flavoured morsels are. With a private dining area for up to 34 people and its location near Victoria train station, Uni makes a convenient choice for a cultural business meal.

Uni, 18a Ebury Street, London SW1W 0LU; 020 7730 9267; restaurantuni.com