The Goring (pictured) is one of those hotels that can justifiably be called โa bastionโ, upholding civilised behaviour and impeccable good manners, writes Colette Doyle. Run by CEO Jeremy, who represents the fourth generation of the Goring family, this venerable property is a long-time favourite of the residents of nearby Buckingham Palace and can lay claim to being the first hotel to be awarded a royal warrant for hospitality services.
The dining room is delightfully old school, with frock-coated waiters dedicated to making every guest feel special, whether theyโre aristocracy or not. The traditional cream and gold dรฉcor is enlivened with the addition of twinkling Swarovski chandeliers; again it benefits from a connection with nobility, having been designed by Viscount Linley.
I know without even consulting the menu what Iโm going to have as a first course, as Iโve read that the Queen Motherโs preferred dish when she ate here was Eggs Drumkilbo, a lobster, aspic and mayonnaise dish named after an estate up in Perthshire that dates back to ancient times.
Iโm just a little concerned, as this particular incarnation of the dish contains crab, a crustacean that Iโm not very fond of, but our genial waiter assures me that the taste isnโt overpowering โ and heโs quite right; in fact this is the perfect summer starter, light yet incredibly tasty and topped with a dainty dollop of caviar. My date, meanwhile, opts for smoked garlic risotto, studded with juicy Scottish girolles.
For the main course I continue with the seafood theme and order the pan-fried Dover sole, which is simply magnificent, served with a deliciously tangy homemade tartare sauce and carefully filleted at the table. My companion keeps me company by ordering another fish dish: organic sea trout with red shrimps in a roast prawn broth. This is a gorgeous peachy-pink colour, although the portion isnโt quite man-sized enough for my plus-oneโs liking, so heโs glad itโs bolstered by a selection of spring vegetables.
For dessert I decide to stick with the savoury and pick an assortment of British cheeses, served from the gleaming, golden trolley. Dazzled by the amazing choice on offer, Iโm glad of the waiterโs expert guidance and am especially impressed by the creamy, pungent Oxford Isis.
A meal here is a real occasion; this is food not as sustenance, but as a culinary treat to be savoured. Any discerning diner is bound to give this establishment their very own seal of approval.
The Goring, 15 Beeston Place, London SW1W 0JW; 020 7396 9000; thegoring.com
Uni
Sushi restaurants should no longer be perceived as in-and-out affairs where the dishes float past you on a constantly moving conveyor belt, writes Molly Dyson. Since the cuisine has become such a popular choice for the UKโs up-and-coming generation of creative business people, these establishments have turned into swanky modern venues. Uni is no exception, with its recessed lighting and dark hardwood floors. Backlit shelves line the walls, containing an eclectic mix of antiques, from books to knickknacks and Japanese prints.
Uniโs menu is a bit different from your average sushi place because it celebrates Nikkei cuisine, which is the marriage of Peruvian and Japanese cooking. Those looking for spicier options might find the selection of ceviche and tiradito (South American versions of sushi) appealing. My partner and I arenโt feeling up for it, so we both go for the set menu. Our miso soup is so good we finish it in a few eager spoonfuls and after, the kaiso seaweed salad puts us in the mood for something more substantial.
Iโm a fan of simple food, so I choose nigiri sushi (a piece of fish on a bed of rice) as my main dish. My eyes are obviously bigger than my stomach, as 10 massive pieces including tuna, yellowtail, tiger prawn, butterfish and salmon are put in front of me, complete with a side of ginger to cleanse the pallet and wasabi to spice things up. My partnerโs selection is much the same but in the form of maki (fish and rice rolled in seaweed).
For dessert, our waiter suggests the mochi, a Japanese confection made from pounded sticky rice with an ice cream filling. Neither of us have had it before but weโre amazed at how delicious the chocolate, cheesecake and fruit-flavoured morsels are. With a private dining area for up to 34 people and its location near Victoria train station, Uni makes a convenient choice for a cultural business meal.
Uni, 18a Ebury Street, London SW1W 0LU; 020 7730 9267; restaurantuni.com
