Tried & tasted: City Social

London restaurants are going up in the world – quite literally, writes Colette Doyle. Long-time stalwarts such as the Paramount at Centre Point have been joined by newcomers including Sushisamba at Heron Tower and Aqua at the Shard. And now there’s City Social, located on the 24th floor of Tower 42, close to the City’s Liverpool Street.

The latest venture of Michelin-starred chef Jason Atherton, who was the first Brit to complete an internship at Spain’s legendary El Bulli restaurant, is buzzing when I arrive; even though it’s still early and mid-week, there’s already a lively feel to the place and an upbeat jazz soundtrack adds to the atmosphere.

Service is sleek from the outset and I like the way the dessert menu is made available upfront, perfect for those who, like me, have a sweet tooth and want to know how much room to leave for pudding. Our server brings a choice of white baguette or sourdough brown bread accompanied by whipped, unsalted butter that tastes incredibly creamy and nothing like your average supermarket spread.

My companion and I both opt for seafood starters – he goes for beetroot-cured Cornish mackerel, which turns the fish a fetching shade of pink and is served with roasted pine nuts and goat’s cheese sorbet, and I order tuna tataki with avocado, which comes with a ponzu dressing whose piquancy perfectly complements the other ingredients.

The wine list features some fancy bottles if you’re here to splash the cash; I spot a Riesling from Alsace for £410. The sommelier recommends a more reasonably priced Chablis that is both refreshing and beautifully balanced.

For the main course, I continue with the pescetarian theme and select Dover sole with a citrus sabayon (a light foamy mousse) that is enhanced by the addition of caper gnocchi on the side. My escort’s lamb dish, meanwhile, comes complete with a dinky mini-Shepherd’s Pie.

After dessert (a selection of cheeses for him and a luscious white peach parfait with basil for me), we’re presented with salted chocolate caramels in a gorgeous wooden box to enjoy with coffee while we admire the stunning views, which get even better after dark.

There are smart private rooms for hire here too – one is a chef’s table, the other seats 24 (pictured above) and there’s an incentive scheme whereby PAs get points for booking. Just one more reason that this classy operation looks set to be a soaring success.

City Social, 24th Floor, 25 Old Broad St, London EC2N 1HQ; 020 7877 7703; citysociallondon.com