The breathtaking scenery of the Scottish Highlands offers the perfect backdrop for the train trip of a lifetime, as Molly Dyson discovers on board the Belmond Royal Scotsman
Scotland’s untamed landscape is a place where traditions come alive and you can feel at one with the country’s history. From a stunning coastline to deep lakes and tall mountains, it offers some of the most mesmerising scenery in the world and is the perfect setting for a truly relaxing getaway. And surely there can be no better way to experience its beauty than from the comfort of a luxury train.
That’s why I’m signed up for the Classic journey aboard the Royal Scotsman, operated by Belmond, (formerly known as Orient-Express) a five-day foray into the romantic scenery of the Scottish Highlands, along the country’s dramatic coast. Check-in takes place at the elegant Balmoral Hotel in Edinburgh, conveniently located next to the capital’s Waverley train station. Our hostess and tour guide Sandra greets each one of us with an exuberant smile that we’re soon to learn always graces this local lady’s face.
As we arrive on the platform, a piper begins playing a melody of traditional Scottish tunes and leads us down the length of the train to the main entrance. The serving staff and manager Fredrik are waiting with welcoming smiles and glasses of champagne.
The interior is decorated in 1930s fashion, with wood panelling, plush red carpeting and classy gold and white light fixtures throughout. The observation car features tweed-upholstered couches and armchairs with throw cushions displaying the Royal Scotsman tartan. The windows are huge and all the furniture is positioned to offer unobstructed views. This train is one of the few remaining to feature an open-air veranda from which you can immerse yourself in the beauty of the Scottish countryside.
We have some time before dinner is served, so I prise myself away from the amazing vistas offered by the windows and head to my cabin to unpack. What awaits me behind the door is astonishing, especially given the limited space available. I have a choice of two single beds (which turn out to be extremely comfortable) and the cabin also features its own bathroom with a shower. Other amenities include a wardrobe, storage drawers, a writing desk and a bedside table. Handy shelving in the bathroom means I have a place for everything.
Dinners on the train alternate between informal and formal, where we’re invited to dress the part for a black-tie affair. The ladies on board have outdone themselves with beautiful gowns, while some of the men are brave enough to don that staple of Scottish tradition, the kilt. Each meal is preceded by a drinks reception and canapés in the observation car, where the fully stocked bar is prepared to serve up just about any kind of cocktail you could want. I’m blown away by the quality of the dishes produced by the chef in his tiny kitchen. During the trip, we’re served amazing guinea fowl, incredible roasted sweet pepper and pesto risotto and a prime cut of juicy Angus beef with creamy rosemary polenta, among other exquisitely made meals. The breakfast selection is extensive – my favourite is the porridge with a drop of whisky added for extra flavour.
On day two we walk into the market town of Keith for a tour of the Strathisla Distillery, where one of the main whiskies in the Chivas Regal blend is made. It’s interesting to see that the establishment still uses many of the traditional methods of making alcohol.
Later we take a short coach journey to Plockton, where I opt for a boat trip out on the bay to see the seals. Our captain, Callum, informs us they are due to give birth to their pups at any moment, but we’re not lucky enough to see any of them. The night is spent in Kyle of Lochalsh, where we’re bowled over by the view of the Isle of Skye across the water. I get up early the next morning for an optional trip to Eilean Donan, one of Scotland’s most iconic castles, for a rare opportunity to photograph it before the day’s tourists arrive.
After lunch we travel into the countryside to visit Ballindalloch, a romantic castle that has been the home of the Macpherson-Grant family since 1546. Later on, our evening is rounded off nicely by the riveting tale of Scotland’s heroes, as told by an authentic Highlander.
Day four brings a great deal of excitement, as I’m one of the first to be offered the chance to take part in an activity that is normally only available for groups who book exclusive journeys. We travel to the picturesque Rothiemurchus Estate, where another passenger and I have a lesson with some of the crew on competing in the Highland games, an age-old series of traditional athletic events based around strength and endurance. Thanks to the spirit of my companions, I never once feel like a fool and even manage to perform a perfect caber toss – no easy feat, according to our instructor.
Next we have a leisurely lunch while we take in the views of the mountains as we make our way to Dunkeld, where we leave the train for a tour of Glamis Castle. The property has been lived in by numerous members of the British Royal Family over the centuries, including, most recently, the late Queen Mother.
After our last formal dinner, we take the celebrations on to the platform for Scottish dancing and a live music act. Sandra and Fredrik teach us the moves and then lead us in an evening of fun and laughter. When I stop for a breath, I get a bit emotional watching all the people I’ve spent the past week with acting like best friends when they boarded as strangers.
My journey aboard the Belmond Royal Scotsman is one I’ll never forget. The range of activities, incredible amenities, friendly staff and comfortable accommodation make this a trip not to be missed.
The Belmond Royal Scotsman offers an extensive choice of journey options lasting from one to seven nights. Group rates are available on request, or companies can hire the train and tailor the itinerary to their own requirements. The Classic journey starts from £4,330 per person and includes all meals, drinks and accommodation on board, as well as listed excursions. For further information or to book, call 0845 077 2222, or visit belmond.com
The Classic journey itinerary
Day one
• Depart Edinburgh Waverley station and enjoy afternoon tea as the train travels north through the former Kingdom of Fife.
• An informal dinner is served as the train arrives in Keith.
• Retire to the observation car for live entertainment and drinks.
Day two
• Disembark for a tour of Strathisla Distillery.
• Lunch is served on board as the train makes its way to Plockton.
• Take a boat trip to see the seals, or go for a walk around the village.
• A formal dinner is served on board in Kyle of Lochalsh.
Day three
• Walk across the bridge to the Isle of Skye, or take a coach ride to visit Eilean Donan (both optional).
• Lunch is served as the train travels along the Beauly Firth towards Inverness.
• Disembark for a tour of Ballindalloch Castle.
• Enjoy an informal dinner on board at Boat of Garten.
• Listen to the stories of an expert Highlander
Day four
• Disembark for a coach trip to Rothiemurchus Estate and choose an activity: the Highland games, fishing, clay-pigeon shooting, an estate tour, or a nature walk.
• Lunch is served on board as the train heads south to Dunkeld.
• Travel to Glamis Castle for a private tour.
• A formal dinner is served.
• Enjoy a night of live music and Scottish dancing on the platform at Dundee.
Day five
• Breakfast is served as the train travels back to Edinburgh for the train’s final destination.
