The first thing that comes to mind when I think of Indian food is a traditional curry with a side of pilau rice, writes Molly Dyson. Atul Kochar has forever changed the definition of one of my favourite cuisines with his signature dishes at Benares in Mayfair (pictured). Set in the quiet luxury of Berkeley Square, the restaurant’s main entrance reminds me more of an elegant hotel complete with staffed cloakroom. Upstairs, the theme of polished black surfaces and ultra-chic low lighting continues from the bar through to the dining area.
Rather than choosing from the set menu, we opt to have the chef design a tasting experience with a bottle of Atul’s own sauvignon blanc from Hungary. Our starters look big enough to be considered main course portions when they arrive. I’m not a fan of lamb, so I have been brought small portions of minted wild sea bass, spiced quail and mustard marinated king prawn. My partner enjoys the same with the addition of a lamb cutlet and a spiced kebab.
After a decent amount of waiting time, a duo of waiters arrives with our mains: tandoori macchi aur kekda – baked organic salmon with spiced vermicelli and hand-picked crab croquette served with coconut and curry leaf sauce – and kadai chicken cooked two ways – as a fillet with peppers and tomatoes and as a curry. Then there’s a side each of rich saag paneer, Punjabi-style chickpeas, posh pilau rice and garlic naan. There isn’t a single dish I don’t care for and we manage to polish off just about everything, with a little bit of room to spare for dessert. Our sweet selection includes Atul’s signature Masala chai soufflé. By the end of the night, we’re full to the brim and politely decline the offer of coffee.
With a selection of private dining areas for six to 36 guests, Benares offers something a little out of the ordinary in a stylish setting.
12a Berkeley Square House, Berkeley Square, London W1J 6BS; 020 7629 8886; benaresrestaurant.com
Napa at the Chiswick Moran
If location is everything then Napa at the Chiswick Moran is sitting pretty when it comes to attracting business travellers, writes Colette Doyle. The hotel is a minute’s walk from Gunnersbury Tube station, making it an ideal choice for those who have to catch a flight from Heathrow but don’t want to be stuck all the way out at the airport.
The friendly staff at the Globe Bar are on hand with a suggestion when, bamboozled by the extensive drinks list, my companion is unsure what to order. They kindly offer to make him a champagne cocktail complete with requisite cube of sugar. I, on the other hand, opt for a classic Bellini – fizz meets peach in a made-for-each-other combination. Once seated in the welcoming Napa restaurant just next door, we admire the prints of vintage airline scenes that adorn the walls, including one from an ad campaign for the first transatlantic flight from the UK.
To start I opt for the Scottish smoked salmon with dill scone, fried capers and crème fraîche and can vouch for the way the creamy and zesty flavours work well together, while my plus one picks crab and chilli fritters with coriander, avocado and lime. I refrain from trying it, as I’m not a fan of this particular crustacean, but he assures me the coriander complements the crab perfectly. Meanwhile, the wine list is solid and reasonably priced. We plump for an Italian Gavi di Gavi, which lives up to its billing of being elegant, fragrant and fruity.
For mains, a tender fillet steak is accompanied by a rich red wine sauce and my Caesar salad is such a generous helping, with juicy lardons and crispy croutons piled on top of tasty chicken, that I have to admit defeat halfway through.
We finish off with a fondue to share that comes with an assortment of pastries and marshmallows, as well as the more traditional pieces of fruit, to plunge into the rich and gooey chocolatey depths.
Given that the theme of Napa’s décor is travel, it seems appropriate to conclude that this establishment is worth a stopover on your itinerary.
Chiswick Moran Hotel, 626 Chiswick High Road, London W4 5RY; 020 8996 5200; chiswickmoranhotel.com
