Tried & tasted: La Tagliata

The City of London is known for its swanky restaurants and cocktail bars that cater for resident high-class bankers and business people, but it’s also home to some of the capital’s most interesting niche eateries. La Tagliata is tucked away on a quiet side road away from the buzzing atmosphere of Liverpool Street and is a place where sophistication meets simplicity, writes Molly Dyson.

Those who wish to have a proper conversation over dinner will be delighted by the lack of music here, making a change from most other City establishments. This is a place to sit back, relax and enjoy the company of your fellow diners. Rustic wood flooring combines with plain white walls and unique décor to create an atmosphere of artistic charm. The restaurant is laid out in a series of rooms, so corporate guests can book a table for up to 10 and are guaranteed to have a private space. Each area features its own theme, from the music room and the pantry to the library and the wine cellar, where my partner and I choose to sit during our visit.

La Tagliata gets its name from a traditional Italian meal of sliced beef steak. The menu here is sparse, containing tagliatelle with a choice of three sauces, a main course of meat or a vegetarian option – baked scamorza (a cheese that is similar to mozzarella) stuffed with porcini mushrooms, sundried tomatoes and truffle paté – and desert. Our most difficult decision is which wine to drink. We eventually go with the 2012 Ortonese Malvasia Chardonnay, which complements our pasta starter. I’ve decided on a simple pomodoro sauce, while my partner has for the aromatic pesto version.

The steak is lightly seasoned and served on a bed of rocket, parmesan and cherry tomatoes with a balsamic reduction, along with shepherd’s potatoes, a sort of creamy mash with some lumps left in for texture and made with a dash of rosemary. My first bite of meat sends me into a fit of unintelligible noises of delight and I devour the dish in no time.

Since our starter and main course weigh in at a mere 650 calories, I rationalise that skipping dessert is not an option. It takes me a few minutes to make the agonising choice between tiramisu and panna cotta, but when the waiter tells me the latter comes with fresh seasonal strawberries, I can’t resist. While the confection is a bit heavier than I normally like my afters to be, it’s still satisfyingly sweet and leaves me feeling like the meal is complete.

11 Sandy’s Row, London E1 7HW; 020 7247 2818; la-tagliata.com