Tried & tasted: Napa at the Chiswick Moran

If location is everything then Napa at the Chiswick Moran is sitting pretty when it comes to attracting business travellers, writes Colette Doyle. The hotel is a minute’s walk from Gunnersbury Tube station, making it an ideal choice for those who have to catch a flight from Heathrow but don’t want to be stuck all the way out at the airport.

The friendly staff at the Globe Bar are on hand with a suggestion when, bamboozled by the extensive drinks list, my companion is unsure what to order. They kindly offer to make him a champagne cocktail complete with requisite cube of sugar. I, on the other hand, opt for a classic Bellini – fizz meets peach in a made-for-each-other combination.

Once seated in the welcoming Napa restaurant just next door, we admire the prints of vintage airline scenes that adorn the walls, including one from an ad campaign for the first transatlantic flight from the UK.

I normally forgo bread as I find it too filling before a meal, but I just have to try the delectable looking fruit and walnut variety that’s served here. To start I opt for the Scottish smoked salmon with dill scone, fried capers and crème fraîche and can vouch for the way the creamy and zesty flavours work well together, while my plus one picks crab and chilli fritters with coriander, avocado and lime. I refrain from trying it, as I’m not a fan of this particular crustacean, but he assures me the coriander complements the crab perfectly.

Meanwhile, the wine list is solid and reasonably priced, featuring all the usual suspects of South African Chenin Blanc, French Chardonnay and Australian Sauvignon Blanc; we plump for an Italian Gavi di Gavi, which lives up to its billing of being elegant, fragrant and fruity.

For mains, a tender fillet steak is accompanied by a rich red wine sauce and my Caesar salad is such a generous helping, with juicy lardons and crispy croutons piled on top of tasty chicken, that I have to admit defeat halfway through.

We finish off with a fondue to share that comes with an assortment of pastries and marshmallows, as well as the more traditional pieces of fruit, to plunge into the gooey chocolatey depths.

Given that the theme of Napa’s décor is travel, it seems appropriate to conclude that this establishment is worth a stopover on your itinerary.

Napa; Chiswick Moran Hotel, 626 Chiswick High Road, London W4 5RY; 020 8996 5200; chiswickmoranhotel.com