Tried & tasted: The Goring

The Goring is one of those hotels that can justifiably be called “a bastion”, upholding civilised behaviour and impeccable good manners, writes Colette Doyle. Run by CEO Jeremy, who represents the fourth generation of the Goring family, this venerable property is a long-time favourite of the residents of nearby Buckingham Palace and can lay claim to being the first hotel to be awarded a royal warrant for hospitality services.

The dining room is delightfully old school, with frock-coated waiters dedicated to making every guest feel special, whether they’re aristocracy or not. The traditional cream and gold décor is enlivened with the addition of twinkling Swarovski chandeliers; again it benefits from a connection with nobility, having been designed by Viscount Linley.

I know without even consulting the menu what I’m going to have as a first course, as I’ve read that the Queen Mother’s preferred dish when she ate here was Eggs Drumkilbo, a lobster, aspic and mayonnaise dish named after an estate up in Perthshire that dates back to ancient times.

I’m just a little concerned, as this particular incarnation of the dish contains crab, a crustacean that I’m not very fond of, but our genial waiter assures me that the taste isn’t overpowering – and he’s quite right; in fact this is the perfect summer starter, light yet incredibly tasty and topped with a dainty dollop of caviar. My date, meanwhile, opts for smoked garlic risotto, studded with juicy Scottish girolles.

For the main course I continue with the seafood theme and order the pan-fried Dover sole, which is simply magnificent, served with a deliciously tangy homemade tartare sauce and carefully filleted at the table. My companion keeps me company by ordering another fish dish: organic sea trout with red shrimps in a roast prawn broth. This is a gorgeous peachy-pink colour, although the portion isn’t quite man-sized enough for my plus-one’s liking, so he’s glad it’s bolstered by a selection of spring vegetables.

For dessert I decide to stick with the savoury and pick an assortment of British cheeses, served from the gleaming, golden trolley. Dazzled by the amazing choice on offer, I’m glad of the waiter’s expert guidance and am especially impressed by the creamy, pungent Oxford Isis.

A meal here is a real occasion; this is food not as sustenance, but as a culinary treat to be savoured. Any discerning diner is bound to give this establishment their very own seal of approval.

The Goring, 15 Beeston Place, London SW1W 0JW; 020 7396 9000; thegoring.com