London restaurants are going up in the world – quite literally, writes Colette Doyle. Long-time stalwarts such as the Paramount at Centre Point have been joined by newcomers including Sushisamba at Heron Tower and Aqua at the Shard. And now there’s City Social, (pictured) located on the 24th floor of Tower 42, close to the City’s Liverpool Street.
The latest venture of Michelin-starred chef Jason Atherton, who was the first Brit to complete an internship at Spain’s legendary El Bulli restaurant, is buzzing when I arrive; even though it’s still early and mid-week, there’s already a lively feel to the place and an upbeat jazz soundtrack adds to the atmosphere.
Service is sleek from the outset and I like the way the dessert menu is made available upfront, perfect for those who, like me, have a sweet tooth and want to know how much room to leave for pudding. Our server brings a choice of white baguette or sourdough brown bread accompanied by whipped, unsalted butter that tastes incredibly creamy and nothing like your average supermarket spread.
My companion and I both opt for seafood starters – he goes for beetroot-cured Cornish mackerel, which turns the fish a fetching shade of pink and is served with roasted pine nuts and goat’s cheese sorbet, and I order tuna tataki with avocado, which comes with a ponzu dressing whose piquancy perfectly complements the other ingredients.
The wine list features some fancy bottles if you’re here to splash the cash; I spot a Riesling from Alsace for £410. The sommelier recommends a more reasonably priced Chablis that is both refreshing and beautifully balanced.
For the main course, I continue with the pescetarian theme and select Dover sole with a citrus sabayon (a light foamy mousse) that is enhanced by the addition of caper gnocchi on the side. My escort’s lamb dish, meanwhile, comes complete with a dinky mini-Shepherd’s Pie.
After dessert (a selection of cheeses for him and a luscious white peach parfait with basil for me), we’re presented with salted chocolate caramels in a gorgeous wooden box to enjoy with coffee while we admire the stunning views, which get even better after dark.
There are smart private rooms for hire here too – one is a chef’s table, the other seats 24 (pictured above) and there’s an incentive scheme whereby PAs get points for booking. Just one more reason that this classy operation looks set to be a soaring success.
City Social, 24th Floor, 25 Old Broad St, London EC2N 1HQ; 020 7877 7703; citysociallondon.com
Silk & Grain
In the modern age of creative cocktails and innovative food, a restaurant offering delicious dishes and drinks that rival the fanciest bars is a rare find, writes Molly Dyson. Silk & Grain is one such place, while also providing a stylish, relaxed environment.
The atmosphere here is ideal for both lunch meetings and post-work drinks. On the ground floor you’ve got a hip bar with speakers playing the latest music. As my partner and I are escorted upstairs to the dining room, I’m pleased to find that the noise doesn’t permeate – manager James tells us he specifically asked for the speakers to be pointed downward when the place was being decorated for this very reason.
It’s a few minutes before we even look at the menu because we’re too busy taking pictures of the stag statue that’s covered in pennies and the bull’s head fountain plastered with paper currency from around the world.
The main attraction is the selection of aged cocktails, an idea James came up with in his past life as a bartender. My favourite is called leather and spice, a concoction of scotch with leather infusion, mango, passion fruit syrup and cardamom bitters. It’s just sweet enough to mask the taste of alcohol, but not as sugary as some of the drinks you’ll find at trendy nightclubs.
When it comes to food, the chef has everything well under control. The menu is small, but it offers something for everyone. I start with a tasty chilled lobster salad with sweetcorn, tomatoes and tarragon mayonnaise before moving on to a rump steak with béarnaise sauce and creamy mashed potatoes.
My partner wolfs down his smoked mackerel and horseradish pâté and the flavour of his honey-glazed rack of lamb makes up for the meat being a bit undercooked for his taste.
Dessert for me is a gooey homemade brownie with pistachio ice cream and a peach and almond tart for him, both of which leave us ready to slip into a satisfied food coma. If you’re looking for an unusual drinks list without the commotion of a cocktail bar, this restaurant is certainly worth a try.
Silk & Grain, 33 Cornhill, London EC3V 3ND; 020 7929 1378; silkandgrain.co.uk
